How to Add Pockets to Your Beloved Brownie-Goose Summer Sailors (or any other pants or shorts pattern)

Checking on her pine cone in her pocket

WHO LOVES BROWNIE-GOOSE’S SUMMER SAILORS?

We do!

WHO WANTS FUNCTIONING POCKETS?

We do!!

Hi everyone, I’m Kari. I love the Brownie-Goose Summer Sailor shorts. In fact, it was my very first paid PDF pattern I sewed! I quickly made a pair according to instructions. Although I love the original pattern, my girls love to fill their pockets with treasures. So I added pockets to my 2^nd pair! Adding pockets is actually very easy. It’s just a matter of deconstructing the front pattern piece. I learned about constructing pockets last year when I made my daughter a pair of Paperbag Pants by Shwin&Shwin.

After I finished my pair of Summer Sailors with real pockets, I posted a picture late (read: way past bedtime) at night on the PDF pattern group. Within 15 minutes, I had several inquiries as to how I did it. I quickly made a rudimentary tutorial, using just one picture and posted it. This basic tutorial gets referenced almost every time BG summer sailors are mentioned. The original tutorial was a bit lacking. So without further ado,

Drum roll please………

Here is a STEP BY STEP guide showing you how to add functioning pockets to those beloved shorts (and any other pants really!):

STEP 1: Print your pattern, tape pages together per instructions. Trace or cut out the size you need. (In my example, I’ll be making a 2T.)

STEP 2: Set the BACK piece aside. We’ll be working with both the FRONT and the FAUX POCKET pieces. Take the FAUX POCKET piece and set it on top of the FRONT pattern piece, lining it up in the outer corner. Trace the around the FAUX POCKET. Cut away the traced area of the FAUX POCKET. This is now your “new” FRONT piece.

"new" FRONT

STEP 3: Now we need to construct the pocket pieces. On a new piece of paper, trace the FAUX POCKET. Next, determine how wide and deep you would prefer your pockets. In this example, I will be adding 2” from both the top and the bottom of the curve of the pocket. It’s up to you to decide how big your pockets need to be. Just be mindful that they need to fit within the “new” FRONT piece. We don’t want any pockets peeking out! Mark your distance on your paper. Draw intersecting lines to complete the rest of the “rectangle”. Cut the new shape out. (You may also round the bottom inner corner of the pocket if you wish.)

STEP 4: Trace your shape from step 3 on a new piece of paper, making sure to mark the top to make sure the outer corner matches your original pattern. (The outer side will slope slightly as the original pattern).This will now be referred to as POCKET. Cut out. On the original “rectangular” piece, cut away the FAUX POCKET tracing. This piece will now be your POCKET LINING.

This is your POCKET.

This is your POCKET LINING.

STEP 5: To review, you have 3 pieces – POCKET, POCKET LINING, and “new” FRONT. Pin pattern pieces to chosen fabrics and cut out. Remember, to cut a MIRROR image for the other side of the shorts. Grab your bias tape as well.

Here is one side of the front, cut out. Note the pins in the POCKET and POCKET LINING. This is to remember the top of the POCKET and the right/correct side of the LINING. Also, if your shorts are mainly white as mine are, choose a POCKET LINING that won’t show through.

STEP 6: Now the fun begins! Take your “new” FRONT piece and your POCKET LINING piece and match the curve up wrong sides together (WST). Take your bias tape and sandwich it around the curve. The bias tape will hide the raw edges so there’s no need to finish those edges first. Pin bias tape in place and sew. Helpful hint: Sew your 4 sailor buttons on the front now. I didn't and it made it really difficult to sew them on later.

STEP 7: Grab your POCKET piece and match up the outer edges with your “new” FRONT. Flip over. The inner edges of the POCKET and POCKET LINING should match up perfectly. If not, trim to match. The POCKET and POCKET LINING should be right sides together (RST). Pin the inner edges and sew with ¼” seam allowance. Finish edges in the manner you desire (serge or zigzag to prevent fraying).

STEP 8: Baste the POCKET and POCKET LINING to the “new” FRONT on the top and outer edge to prevent shifting.

Baste

Close up of top basting

Close up of bottom basting

STEP 9: Repeat steps to construct the other front side of the shorts. Now, you have real pockets! Don’t you just love them?! Please note: I learned the hard way by not having the buttons on yet. Don’t make my mistake!

STEP 10: Continue the pattern as normal. Be careful when sewing around the crotch. Make sure your pocket doesn't get caught under the needle! (I speak from experience…)

STEP 11: When you finish, make sure you take a picture! They truly are works of art. Can you stand the cuteness?!