Retro Glam Skirt by Little Lizard King: A How-To Guide to Candy Corn-ify It

* Originally aired on Pattern Revolution September 20th 2013 ***

Last year, I posted my test version of the Retro Glam Skirt by Little Lizard King.  I had chosen a Candy Corn theme and the response was overwhelming!  I was going to keep my candy corn sewing process a secret, but I woke up one day feeling generous and decided to share my tutorial with all of you.  I hope you enjoy!

When I first saw the Retro Glam Skirt, I immediately thought the scalloped pieces were perfect for candy corns.  Originally, I thought I'd piece some yellow, orange, and white fabric together horizontally, cut my scallops and call it a day.  But, as I researched candy corns, I realized a couple things, 1.) all the pictures I saw had scalloped edges for each color and 2.) candy corns are not an ombre effect - the orange is in the middle!  Whew, glad I Googled that!

So, armed with the knowledge that each color was scalloped, I began forming a plan.  I could "deconstruct" the pattern piece into my 3 pieces and sew the fabrics with a curved seam, also known as a Princess Seam.  The thing is, though, you can't just cut the pattern piece into 3 and make it work.  There are these pesky important things called seam allowances that need to be accounted for in order for your candy corns to match up to your original scalloped pattern piece.  (By the way, I probably should have gotten permission during my pattern test to do this, but I didn't think about it (or tell a single soul about my plans) until I was finished -- oops!)

Okay, let's get into the nitty-gritty:

1) Print your pattern pieces, MEASURE your test square (seriously, don't skip this step on ANY pattern you print!!!), and cut your size out.  Set the triangle piece aside for now.  We'll be working with just the scalloped pattern piece.

2) How you'd like your candy corn divided is purely personal preference, but the orange (middle) is normally the largest/tallest of the 3 colors.  (I won't be showing the entire pattern piece in this tutorial - just what you need to see.)  

3) Draw curved lines (matching the curve of the bottom of the pattern piece) where you'd like your seam lines to be.  (They are the solid lines in the picture) 

Solid line = intended seam line

4) Determine what you'd like your seam allowance to be.  I'm using a 1/2" seam allowance, but it's purely preference.  Using the width of your SA, draw another set of curved lines (might be helpful to use dashes) ABOVE and BELOW the two curved lines you've drawn originally.  You should now have 2 sets of 3 curved lines.

Add seam allowance to both sides

5) Grab a sheet of blank paper.  We'll start with tracing out the yellow portion (the bottom piece).  Trace along the outside edge of the bottom.  The top line of the bottom set of curves you've drawn will be the top of the yellow pattern piece.  

6) The orange piece (middle piece) will use the bottom line of the bottom set of curves you've drawn and the top line of the upper set of curves.

7) The white piece (top piece) will use the bottom line of the upper set of curves.

The scallop - deconstructed

8) Cut out your pattern pieces and cut them out of your fabric.  I recommend cutting just one set first to make sure you're happy with the ratios you've chosen.

9) Fold each piece in half and iron in a small crease.  This will aid in making sure the middles match up!

Fold in half and press crease.

 Right sides together, pin the middle of the orange bottom to the middle top of the yellow.  You'll see the curves run the opposite direction.

Match up the middle creases

 Starting from the middle, ease your way to one side, matching the edges and pinning as you go.  Repeat with the other side.

Ease the curves together, pin well.

Reverse side

 Now take the white piece and match the bottom of it up with the top curve of the orange piece, right sides together.  (I used Kona cotton and I don't even know if there is a right side, but just make sure your seams will be on the same side...LOL).  Ease the white along the curve of the orange as you did with the yellow.   

Make sure seams will be on the same side!

10) Sew along the curves, slowly, so you can smooth out any potential puckers, using your pre-determined SA.  (If you are using a serger, I recommend disengaging your knife!)  Finish your edges however you'd like.

11) Iron your seam allowances downward (this will allow the seams to lay flat without clipping any curves).  Topstitch the seams in place.  

Iron seams downward after finishing edges

Topstitch along the curved seams

12) Trim any slight overages on the sides.  Place original pattern piece on top to make sure no mistakes were made in the construction of the candy corns.  Repeat process for remaining 9 candy corns.  Sew pattern according to directions.

Trim overage!

Important:  In order for your candy corn seams to line up across all 10 panels of the skirt, very precise cutting and sewing is recommended.  This is not a quick, pump-out-the-skirt-in-an-hour process, but it is a process that yields great results! 

HAPPY SEWING!!!

TUTORIAL: Brownie-Goose Summer Sailor REMIX

Brownie Goose Summer Sailor Shorts - Remix Edition

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**** ORIGINALLY AIRED ON WELCOME TO THE MOUSE HOUSE ON JUNE 29TH, 2013 ****

Hayley has invited me (okay, I may have invited myself…haha) to share my remix edition I did of the Brownie-Goose Summer Sailor Shorts.  Now, unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve heard about these shorts.  And if this is the first you’re hearing about them, don’t worry! I was living under the same rock just 3 months ago.  This pattern was my very first PDF pattern purchase.  It was | at first sight!  In fact, it’s the only shorts pattern I own.  I thought people may start to notice, though, if I made my girls 50 pairs of sailor shorts in different fabrics, so I had an idea!

What if I took this great pattern and did a little remix?  First, I had to decide what look I wanted.  My girls really | pockets on their shorts to collect lots of treasures so I knew I had to have pockets.  Now, I’ve added functioning pockets already to a previous pair of BG Summer Sailors, but I wanted a different look.  I also knew I wanted the shorts to be a bit shorter.  I also wanted more of a brown paper bag type of waist with belt loops and a belt!  Wow, that’s a lot of changes.  But, I look at PDF patterns as almost a blank slate.  So I got to work.

These are the changes I made to an already fabulous pair of shorts:

1.) I shortened the pattern a bit.

2.) I made raised pockets with a faux piping effect. 

3.) I flipped the bottom cuff down instead of up

4.) I made a brown paper bag type waist with belt loops.

5.) I created a fabric belt.

Let’s get started, shall we?    

1.)     I shortened the pattern a bit.

I really wanted these shorts to hit about mid-thigh on my daughter so I cut out the correct size width-wise (in my case, size 3), but I cut the length at the 6-12m size.  Since I was leaving the cuff on the bottom flipped down, I knew that would add a bit of length as well.

2.)  I made raised pockets with a faux piping effect.

To make these pockets, I took my pocket pieces I made from my first tutorial (adding functioning pockets to the Summer Sailor pattern) and rounded the corner to make it more appealing.  I cut out 2 pieces for each pocket, one in my main fabric and one in my lining.  Pick a lining you want people to see because this is what creates the faux piping effect.  

Take 1 of each piece and place them right side together.  Sew the whole way except for the side seam – leave that open to turn your pocket. 

Before turning right side out, notch along the curved edges to along your seams to have them lay nicely.  

Turn right side out.  Head over to your iron and slightly shift your pocket so that your lining peeks out on the concave side (the side your girl will stick her hand in!).  

Iron into place.  Topstitch that edge. 

Repeat with other pocket. 

Okay, now that you’ve got your two pockets with faux piping, let’s figure out placement!  Take your front shorts pieces and lay them out in front of you.  I shifted my pocket upwards leaving 1 ¾ inches above the shorts and sideways leaving about ½ inch over the side.

 I am using my pocket tops to double as belt loops! Genius, huh?

Once you’ve got your pockets where you want them, sew them onto the shorts front along the convex edge (convex, concave - never thought I’d use those words again ever.  Haha)

VERY IMPORTANT: Leave the top half inch or more unsewn.  You will thank me later when you go to sew your waist!

Continue using your Brownie-Goose pattern tutorial.  Stop before you get to the bottom cuffs.

3.)   I flipped the bottom cuff down instead of up and shortened it.

When I first set out to make these shorts, I wanted a scalloped cuff.  Well, that turned out disastrous.  Seriously horrid.  I knew I wanted to have cuffs that turned down instead of up.  Unfortunately because of my attempt at the scallops, I was running low on material.  So instead of the 4” tall cuffs in the pattern, I cut out 2” tall cuffs. 

Okay, once you have your cuff pieces cut out, fold them in half width-wise, right sides together.  Before you sew them, sew your shorts in both the rise and crotch area   Then, measure your leg openings.  With that measurement, mark your seam line on your cuffs.  Sew the ends together.

Turn right side out and fold in half wrong sides together, matching the raw edges.  Repeat for other leg cuff. 

Now, grab your shorts and slide the cuff over the bottom of your shorts, lining up the seam of the cuff with your inner leg seam.  Match the raw edges and pin into place. 

Sew using a ¼” inseam.  Finish edges with serger, zig zag or overlock stitch (and I HIGHLY recommend the overlock foot if you are without a serger!).  Take your shorts over to the iron and flip the cuff down, and press the seam upward.  Topstitch 1/8” from edge on the shorts panel.

4.)  I made a brown paper bag type waist with belt loops.

Okay, almost done! Let’s make that waist!  Flip the tops of your pocket pieces down and pin out of the way. 

Follow the pattern instructions to get the required length for your size and sew accordingly.   Don’t forget to leave an opening for your elastic!  (If you want to use your pocket lining as the inside portion of the waist, cut 2” wide strips of both your main fabric and lining.  Sew, right sides together, proceed as normal.)

To create the brown-paper bag effect, sew a seam all the way around your waistband 3/4” to 1” up from your bottom seam depending on your width of elastic. 

Topstitch 1/8” from the top of the waist as well to give a finished look.  Now, let’s sew on the belt loops before adding the elastic!  Flip your pocket tops back up.  They should line up with your waistband.  Sew the bottom of the belt loops by stitching along the seam where the waist meets the shorts. 

Then, sew the top of the belt loops meeting up with the topstitching already in place.  If your loops are too long, fold them under at the top before stitching. 

The first pair I made, I eyeballed it correctly.  This time, I overshot it just a smidge. 

If a back belt loop is desired create a square out of lining and fabric (sew RST, flip out, topstitch... yada, yada, yada) to make a rear belt loop and sew into place.  

Now, you are ready to add your elastic!  Measure your child’s waist and subtract 1 ½”.  Cut elastic to match. Thread it through the casing and sew the overlap.  Close up the waist band/shorts opening.  Finish raw edges and iron in place.  Adjust the elastic so it is gathered evenly!

Woo hoo!! Aren’t your shorts just the cutest?!   If you don’t have a favorite belt to match and would like to make a fabric one, stick around for just a few more minutes!

5.)  I created a fabric belt.

The first pair I made of these shorts, I had a belt/tie going all the way around the waist, but I have since decided I’m not a fan of the belt all the way around.  Since my daughter is 4, it’s probably not the safest anyway.  BUT, I love the look so I created a faux tie to utilize those belt loops I added. 

First, decide your length.  It will vary depending on the size shorts you made.  You want them long enough that you can tie into a square knot.  Size 3 was around 12 inches for the faux belt.   I would at double it for a full belt (always measure first!).  Cut out your pieces (4 for faux and 2 for continuous) and place right side together.  Take one corner and fold down at a 45 degree angle. 

Repeat on the other tie (end if you have a continuous).  Leave an opening to turn right side out.  I used the straight ends and then just tucked in my seam allowance, ironed and topstitched all the way around closing it up.  

(If you made a continuous belt, thread through the loops and enjoy! You’re done!)  If you made a faux belt like me, we need to secure it to the side seams of your shorts.  I folded my ends in on the wrong side to meet.  Then wrong side facing up and finished straight edge pointing toward the front of your shorts, pin into place.  Sew. 

Flip the belt forward and sew another line down just for reinforcement.  

Repeat on opposite side. 

Thread through your front loops and tie in a square knot (Right over left, left over right)

To quote the wonderful Amy Norris of Brownie-Goose… “YAHOOOOOOS!!” 

Close up of details  -- pocket & belt loop, button detail on cuff,
square knot, and back view

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 - | Kari 

Making Minnie Mouse - Candy Castle Princess Dress by Candy Castle Patterns

* This tutorial originally aired on Pattern Revolution on October 17th, 2013 *

When I first saw this series idea posted for Pattern Revolution, I knew I needed to sign up.  I knew I'd be using the Candy Castle Princess Dress to create one-of-a-kind Halloween costumes for my girls.  I discovered Candy Castle Patterns at the beginning of the summer with my Bubblegum Dress review.  I was lucky enough to test the Candy Castle Princess Dress pattern and made Sofia the First during testing.  For Minnie Mouse, however, I wanted to deviate from the pattern a little bit so I could share it with all of you!

First of all, this pattern has lots of options so chances are that the pattern contains what you need!  There are 4 sleeve options, a slim or regular fit bodice, hemmed or ruffled underskirt and a paneled or non-paneled skirt.  I've made 3 dresses so far!

Minnie Mouse likes to wear a sweet peter pan collar on her dresses and it wasn't an option in the pattern so I set out to draft my own!  I wanted it to end at the shoulder seam so I would not have to alter the back.

After I rounded my neckline, I drew the collar along the neckline and failed to take a picture... whoops!  Below, is my retraced collar piece.

When you cut out your pieces, cut the interfacing without the added seam allowance to reduce bulk in the seams.

Now, sew according to pattern.

Other than the peter pan collar, Minnie Mouse dresses are easily recognizable simply by choosing the right fabric.  Minnie likes either red or pink, but white polka dots are a must.  My 2 year old was very adamant that she wear the "Pink" Minnie Mouse so I used a combination of pink/large white polka, black/small white polka, and white. (The red combination would be the same combo, but substitute the pink with red and add in some bright yellow!  It really pops!)   All of my fabrics and trim came from Hobby Lobby.

Fortunately for all of you, I couldn't just stop at a simple peter pan collar addition :)  I thought and thought and thought.... and then the light bulb went on!  I decided I wanted a Minnie Mouse head cutout in the back of my daughter's dress for a bit of unexpected awesomeness on the back of her dress.  So, I set out to make this crazy idea happen (because I don't give up easily!).  I practiced on a few muslin bodices first until I got it right.  Here's how I did it (and FREE template HERE!).  In order to fit the template along with the amount of snaps needed, I lengthened the bodice 1 inch from the original pattern.  The space between her ears is the overlap of the back bodice in the original pattern - fate, I tell you!!

You will want to make sure to put 2 snaps both above the cutout and below so that everything lays correctly.

I've made this dress 1 size larger so that I can ensure it fits when her birthday rolls around since it's highly likely she'll want a Minnie Mouse birthday again!  I'm ahead of the game!

To finish the Minnie's look, I chose an eyelet ruffle for my ruffled underskirt to mimic her eyelet-trimmed bloomers and carried the eyelet to the bottom of her sleeve cuffs. I used the large bow template in the pattern to create two bows to place on the front scallops.

My daughter is also wearing the Pettiskirt Party by Foo Foo Threads as well as a shorter 'no-sew' tutu from last year's Halloween costume for maximum poof! I made the Minnie Mouse ears and headband last year since my daughter was also Minnie Mouse then.  I used felt for the ears and stuffed them to make them stand up.  I also stuffed the bow and hot glued them all onto a black headband and then hand-stitched them onto the headband for extra stability.

My 2 year old has been asking for her Minnie Dress for WEEKS!!  Today, she got to go out for a photo shoot and she was in Minnie Mouse heaven.  This girl dreams of Minnie Mouse every night, or so she tells me.  I'm sure she would gladly wear this daily if I let her!

Oh, remember when I mentioned at the beginning how this was the third dress I've made using this pattern?  Here are Sofia the First and Cinderella!

Cinderella was created for a very special customer.  What a lucky little girl!!

Well, that wraps it up!!  Thanks  to Pattern Revolution for having me take part in this series and also thanks to Candy Castle Patterns for a beautiful pattern!  Head over to her pattern shop and show her some love!