TUTORIAL: Brownie-Goose Summer Sailor REMIX

Brownie Goose Summer Sailor Shorts - Remix Edition

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**** ORIGINALLY AIRED ON WELCOME TO THE MOUSE HOUSE ON JUNE 29TH, 2013 ****

Hayley has invited me (okay, I may have invited myself…haha) to share my remix edition I did of the Brownie-Goose Summer Sailor Shorts. Now, unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve heard about these shorts. And if this is the first you’re hearing about them, don’t worry! I was living under the same rock just 3 months ago. This pattern was my very first PDF pattern purchase. It was | at first sight! In fact, it’s the only shorts pattern I own. I thought people may start to notice, though, if I made my girls 50 pairs of sailor shorts in different fabrics, so I had an idea!

What if I took this great pattern and did a little remix? First, I had to decide what look I wanted. My girls really | pockets on their shorts to collect lots of treasures so I knew I had to have pockets. Now, I’ve added functioning pockets already to a previous pair of BG Summer Sailors, but I wanted a different look. I also knew I wanted the shorts to be a bit shorter. I also wanted more of a brown paper bag type of waist with belt loops and a belt! Wow, that’s a lot of changes. But, I look at PDF patterns as almost a blank slate. So I got to work.

These are the changes I made to an already fabulous pair of shorts:

1.) I shortened the pattern a bit.

2.) I made raised pockets with a faux piping effect.

3.) I flipped the bottom cuff down instead of up

4.) I made a brown paper bag type waist with belt loops.

5.) I created a fabric belt.

Let’s get started, shall we?

1.) I shortened the pattern a bit.

I really wanted these shorts to hit about mid-thigh on my daughter so I cut out the correct size width-wise (in my case, size 3), but I cut the length at the 6-12m size. Since I was leaving the cuff on the bottom flipped down, I knew that would add a bit of length as well.

2.) I made raised pockets with a faux piping effect.

To make these pockets, I took my pocket pieces I made from my first tutorial (adding functioning pockets to the Summer Sailor pattern) and rounded the corner to make it more appealing. I cut out 2 pieces for each pocket, one in my main fabric and one in my lining. Pick a lining you want people to see because this is what creates the faux piping effect.

Take 1 of each piece and place them right side together. Sew the whole way except for the side seam – leave that open to turn your pocket.

Before turning right side out, notch along the curved edges to along your seams to have them lay nicely.

Turn right side out. Head over to your iron and slightly shift your pocket so that your lining peeks out on the concave side (the side your girl will stick her hand in!).

Iron into place. Topstitch that edge.

Repeat with other pocket.

Okay, now that you’ve got your two pockets with faux piping, let’s figure out placement! Take your front shorts pieces and lay them out in front of you. I shifted my pocket upwards leaving 1 ¾ inches above the shorts and sideways leaving about ½ inch over the side.

I am using my pocket tops to double as belt loops! Genius, huh?

Once you’ve got your pockets where you want them, sew them onto the shorts front along the convex edge (convex, concave - never thought I’d use those words again ever. Haha)

VERY IMPORTANT: Leave the top half inch or more unsewn. You will thank me later when you go to sew your waist!

Continue using your Brownie-Goose pattern tutorial. Stop before you get to the bottom cuffs.

3.) I flipped the bottom cuff down instead of up and shortened it.

When I first set out to make these shorts, I wanted a scalloped cuff. Well, that turned out disastrous. Seriously horrid. I knew I wanted to have cuffs that turned down instead of up. Unfortunately because of my attempt at the scallops, I was running low on material. So instead of the 4” tall cuffs in the pattern, I cut out 2” tall cuffs.

Okay, once you have your cuff pieces cut out, fold them in half width-wise, right sides together. Before you sew them, sew your shorts in both the rise and crotch area Then, measure your leg openings. With that measurement, mark your seam line on your cuffs. Sew the ends together.

Turn right side out and fold in half wrong sides together, matching the raw edges. Repeat for other leg cuff.

Now, grab your shorts and slide the cuff over the bottom of your shorts, lining up the seam of the cuff with your inner leg seam. Match the raw edges and pin into place.

Sew using a ¼” inseam. Finish edges with serger, zig zag or overlock stitch (and I HIGHLY recommend the overlock foot if you are without a serger!). Take your shorts over to the iron and flip the cuff down, and press the seam upward. Topstitch 1/8” from edge on the shorts panel.

4.) I made a brown paper bag type waist with belt loops.

Okay, almost done! Let’s make that waist! Flip the tops of your pocket pieces down and pin out of the way.

Follow the pattern instructions to get the required length for your size and sew accordingly. Don’t forget to leave an opening for your elastic! (If you want to use your pocket lining as the inside portion of the waist, cut 2” wide strips of both your main fabric and lining. Sew, right sides together, proceed as normal.)

To create the brown-paper bag effect, sew a seam all the way around your waistband 3/4” to 1” up from your bottom seam depending on your width of elastic.

Topstitch 1/8” from the top of the waist as well to give a finished look. Now, let’s sew on the belt loops before adding the elastic! Flip your pocket tops back up. They should line up with your waistband. Sew the bottom of the belt loops by stitching along the seam where the waist meets the shorts.

Then, sew the top of the belt loops meeting up with the topstitching already in place. If your loops are too long, fold them under at the top before stitching.

The first pair I made, I eyeballed it correctly. This time, I overshot it just a smidge.

If a back belt loop is desired create a square out of lining and fabric (sew RST, flip out, topstitch... yada, yada, yada) to make a rear belt loop and sew into place.

Now, you are ready to add your elastic! Measure your child’s waist and subtract 1 ½”. Cut elastic to match. Thread it through the casing and sew the overlap. Close up the waist band/shorts opening. Finish raw edges and iron in place. Adjust the elastic so it is gathered evenly!

Woo hoo!! Aren’t your shorts just the cutest?! If you don’t have a favorite belt to match and would like to make a fabric one, stick around for just a few more minutes!

5.) I created a fabric belt.

The first pair I made of these shorts, I had a belt/tie going all the way around the waist, but I have since decided I’m not a fan of the belt all the way around. Since my daughter is 4, it’s probably not the safest anyway. BUT, I love the look so I created a faux tie to utilize those belt loops I added.

First, decide your length. It will vary depending on the size shorts you made. You want them long enough that you can tie into a square knot. Size 3 was around 12 inches for the faux belt. I would at double it for a full belt (always measure first!). Cut out your pieces (4 for faux and 2 for continuous) and place right side together. Take one corner and fold down at a 45 degree angle.

Repeat on the other tie (end if you have a continuous). Leave an opening to turn right side out. I used the straight ends and then just tucked in my seam allowance, ironed and topstitched all the way around closing it up.

(If you made a continuous belt, thread through the loops and enjoy! You’re done!) If you made a faux belt like me, we need to secure it to the side seams of your shorts. I folded my ends in on the wrong side to meet. Then wrong side facing up and finished straight edge pointing toward the front of your shorts, pin into place. Sew.